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What is the history of coffee? From goat herder to global product

What is the history of coffee? From goat herder to global product

Enjoying your cup of coffee? Perhaps you'll enjoy reading this story with your morning brew.

A drink with a long history

For most of us, coffee is an obvious part of our morning routine. But the journey from goat pasture to cup is a centuries-old tale. Filled with legends, prohibitions, and coffee houses that literally influenced the course of history.

The Legend of Kaldi

The most famous story about the origin of coffee revolves around Kaldi, a goat herder from the Ethiopian province of Kaffa. He supposedly noticed his goats becoming unusually energetic after eating berries from a certain shrub. Curious, he brought the berries to a local monastery, where monks made a drink from them that helped them stay awake during prayers.

A side note rarely mentioned: this story first appears in written sources from 1671, over eight hundred years after it supposedly took place. Historically, it is therefore likely a legend, not a proven fact. What is certain: the coffee plant originally comes from Ethiopia, and the Kaffa region eventually gave its name to the word "coffee" itself.

Sufi monks and the first coffee drinkers

For a long time after its supposed discovery, little happened with the berry. It wasn't until around the fifteenth century that Sufi monasteries in Yemen began roasting and brewing the beans as a drink. Not for pleasure, but to stay awake during nightly prayers and rituals. From this religious context, coffee spread to the port city of Mocha, which would give its name to one of today's most famous coffee flavors, and from there to Mecca and Cairo.

Forbidden coffee: why rulers feared coffee houses

What seems like an innocent cup today was for centuries seen as a threat to public order, and this is perhaps the least known chapter in coffee history.

In 1511, the governor of Mecca, Khair Beg, ordered coffee houses in the city to be closed. His concern was not the drink itself, but what happened in those houses: people gathered, discussed freely, and sometimes criticized authority. The ban did not last, as locals and traders had become too attached to their coffee, but it is one of the first examples of a recurring pattern: coffee houses as hotbeds of free expression, and authorities becoming uncomfortable with that.

A century later, Ottoman Sultan Murad IV even banned coffee in his empire under penalty of death, again fearing political conspiracies being brewed in coffee houses. This ban also eventually disappeared, and coffee houses, known in the Ottoman Empire as qahveh khaneh, grew into central meeting places for conversation, music, chess, and news.

In Europe, resistance also initially arose, though of a different nature. Clerics called coffee the "bitter invention of the devil," because the drink came from the Islamic world. According to tradition, Pope Clement VIII was asked around 1600 to officially ban coffee, but after tasting it himself, he reportedly decided to "baptize" the drink and approve it for Christians, paving the way for coffee's spread throughout Europe.

The Siege of Vienna and the birth of the Viennese coffee house

One of the most colorful legends in coffee history takes place in 1683, during the siege of Vienna by the Ottoman army. When the siege failed and the Ottoman troops retreated, they left behind, among other things, sacks of green coffee beans. According to tradition, it was a Polish officer, Jerzy Franciszek Kulczycki, who managed to acquire these beans and subsequently opened Vienna's first coffee house with them. True or not, the Viennese coffee house culture that emerged from this would remain one of the most famous in the world for centuries.

Coffee reaches the rest of Europe

By 1615, Western Europe's first coffee house opened in Venice, soon followed by cities in England, France, Germany, and the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, the first coffee house opened in 1663, followed a year later by The Hague. London had an estimated three hundred coffee houses by the mid-seventeenth century.

Coffee houses that made history

What stands out during this period is how often coffee houses were not just places to drink, but incubators of ideas that would change the world. Edward Lloyd's coffee house in London, opened in 1686, became the regular meeting place for shipowners, captains, and merchants who took out insurance against each other there. The informal origin of what would later become Lloyd's of London, still one of the largest insurance markets in the world.

In Paris, coffee houses like Café Procope were the regular meeting place for Enlightenment thinkers, and it was in the Café de Foy that Camille Desmoulins delivered a fiery speech in 1789 that is widely regarded as a direct trigger for the storming of the Bastille, the starting point of the French Revolution.

From Ethiopian crop to global product

Parallel to this cultural spread, the physical dissemination of the coffee plant itself also took place. In the second half of the seventeenth century, Dutch traders managed to obtain coffee seeds and shipped them to Batavia, present-day Indonesia, where the first coffee plantations on Java emerged. In 1714, the mayor of Amsterdam gifted a young coffee plant to French King Louis XIV, who placed it in the Royal Botanical Garden in Paris. Years later, the Frenchman Gabriel de Clieu secretly smuggled a cutting from that same plant on a voyage to Martinique, a journey filled with storms and pirate attacks. The cutting survived, and within fifty years, an estimated eighteen million coffee plants would grow on the island from it.

Thus, within two to three centuries, coffee spread from a local Ethiopian discovery to a crop cultivated on multiple continents, from Southeast Asia to the Caribbean.

The colonial history of coffee

An important part of coffee's history is less romantic than often told. The global spread of coffee is closely linked to colonial trade and unequal power relations.

When European powers began cultivating coffee in colonies, it wasn't just about taste or culture, but also about control, raw materials, and profit. Coffee became a commodity within systems where labor, land, and yields were unevenly distributed. The countries where coffee was grown often earned relatively little from a product that gained much economic value elsewhere.

That is precisely why the colonial history of coffee is important. It shows that the global coffee chain did not arise neutrally. Many of today's relationships have roots in that history. Consider price pressure, the distance between producer and consumer, and limited transparency about who earns what within the chain.

How did coffee change in modern times?

In modern times, coffee grew into a mass-produced product. Industrialization, faster logistics, and global distribution made coffee accessible to more and more people. Supermarkets, ground coffee, capsules, and international brands made coffee a staple of daily life.

At the same time, a counter-movement emerged. More consumers wanted to know where coffee comes from, how beans are grown, what determines quality, and how the price is distributed in the chain. This led to increased attention to specialty coffee, origin, branding, certifications, and direct relationships with producers.

From volume to quality

While coffee long revolved primarily around availability and price, attention later grew to taste and origin. Countries of origin, altitude, variety, processing method, and branding gained more significance. Consumers learned that coffee is not a uniform product, but an agricultural product with character.

From marketing story to transparency

In addition to taste, there was also more attention to the question of how fair coffee actually is. Not only the bean itself, but also the surrounding chain came into focus. Who profits from it? How much does the consumer know? What steps are being taken towards a fairer way of working?

That's exactly what we at Bunafide are doing: making origin, impact, and progress visible, without pretending that everything is already perfectly arranged. We know that change takes time, and that transparency is a process, not an endpoint.

Want to know more about coffee, origin, and transparency?

This story is about how coffee originated, but what happens with it today is at least as interesting. If you want to know what that journey from bean to cup looks like now, read how the coffee chain works. If you're wondering when coffee can actually be called "fair," you can read about it in when is coffee fair. Curious about what all those labels on a bag of coffee mean? We explain it in coffee labels explained.

Curious how to better distinguish between flavors yourself, then check out how to taste coffee. And if you want to know how Bunafide itself handles transparency in the chain, read transparency at Bunafide or discover where the ideal cup of coffee comes from.

Frequently asked questions

Who invented coffee?

No one in particular. Coffee is not an invention but a discovery. According to the most famous legend, it was an Ethiopian goat herder, Kaldi, who noticed his goats becoming energetic from certain berries. This story was first written down centuries later and is therefore considered a legend, not a historical fact.

Why was coffee once banned?

Rulers in both Mecca and the Ottoman Empire were wary of coffee houses because people gathered there to speak freely, including criticizing authority. The problem was not the drink itself, but what was discussed in those houses. However, bans on coffee never lasted long.

Where does the name "mocha" come from?

From the Yemeni port city of Mocha, from where coffee was first traded on a large scale to the Middle East and later Europe.

How did coffee get to Europe?

Via trade routes from the Ottoman Empire to European port cities. Venice opened the first Western European coffee house in 1615, Amsterdam followed in 1663, and Vienna got its first coffee house in 1683.

How did coffee get to South America and Asia?

Through European colonial networks. Dutch traders brought coffee plants to Java, and through a smuggling trip by the Frenchman Gabriel de Clieu, the plant also reached Martinique, from where cultivation spread further across Central and South America.

What is the link between coffee and the French Revolution?

In the Parisian Café de Foy, Camille Desmoulins gave a speech in 1789 that is widely regarded as a direct trigger for the storming of the Bastille. Coffee houses served as breeding grounds for political ideas in several places in Europe.

What does colonialism have to do with the history of coffee?

Many coffee-producing countries began large-scale coffee cultivation under colonial rule, often within systems where profits mainly went to the colonizer. That unequal distribution between producer and consumer is a pattern that continues to affect the coffee chain today.

Why is the colonial history of coffee relevant today?

Many patterns from that era, such as price pressure on producers and limited transparency about who earns what in the chain, have their roots in that colonial period and still play a role in modern coffee trade.

What is specialty coffee and why did it become more important?

Specialty coffee is coffee where origin, quality, and processing are central, rather than just price and availability. Interest in this grew as consumers wanted to know more about where their coffee comes from and how it is produced.

In summary

From an Ethiopian legend, via forbidden coffee houses in Mecca and Istanbul, to the salons of Vienna and Paris where even revolutions were sparked. The history of coffee is much richer than most people realize with their morning cup.

Do you also want to know how origin influences the taste of your coffee today? Read where the ideal cup of coffee comes from.

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